Make your own Truck Bed Drawers

Truck bed drawers are likely to cost you $1000 plus but for much less you can make them yourself. They are easy to build and you won’t have to compromise on the quality either. If you follow this guide they will stand up to years of wear and tear. It’s also an enjoyable project you will be proud to have completed.

 
This article along with the video I made to go with it, should be enough information to build your own set of drawers.
 

Materials

Plywood is strong and easy to work with, making it ideal for building this project. I used 17mm plywood for the base and the drawer sides and 12mm for the drawer bottoms to save on weight. I recommend to use similar sizes (16-19mm for the base and stick with 12mm for the drawer bottoms). The amount you will need will depend on a couple things, the size of your truck bed and the height of the unit. The height of the drawers need considering, especially if you have a canopy fitted to your truck. Higher drawers will allow you to fit in more items but will reduce the space above the unit. That is a decision you need to make for yourself.
The biggest saving that you make by building yourself, is the cost of the drawer slides. Long heavy duty drawer slides are expensive. If I bought slides for the set up I built (two drawers) it would’ve cost around $500. Making our own super strong and smooth working slides will cost around $75. All that’s needed are skateboard bearings, 25mm box section steel and nuts and bolts.

Base

The first task is to build the base floor. I used strips of plywood around 200mm wide and built up the base by joining them with pocket holes. This may appear like a lot of work but pocket holes are fast to work with. By using strips it was easy to size for my bed and make the base a perfect fit. Having a tight fit means the unit isn’t going to move around while you are driving. It will also be lighter than a full sheet and you can use up any smaller pieces of plywood you may have. This can also be achieved with a single sheet. You will need to work out the dimensions of your truck bed and make cutouts for the wheel arches etc.

Base Sides

Next the base sides, centre piece and back need cutting and fixing. The height of these pieces are 20mm deeper than the drawers. Regular screws driven in from underneath the base would work. I fixed them with pocket hole screws . You should always predrill and use glue before driving in the screws. Take your time and be sure the sides and centre piece are parallel.

Drawers

The drawers are nothing fancy, a simple box glued and screwed together. The drawer bottoms were cut to fit then glued and nailed those in place.

 
 

Next I pre drilled holes along the sides of each drawer. The height isn’t important but somewhere around the middle. This is to attach the steel box section that will act as runners. I fixed these with self drilling metal screws from the inside of the drawers. The width of the drawers with the runners fitted should fit
snugly in the base. 1mm gap between each runner and base side is perfect.

Drawer Slides

Going back to the base we are now ready to fit the skateboard bearings to make the drawer slides. First we need to work out the height for the bearings. This is determined by the position the runner was fixed onto the drawers. There needs to be around 10mm between the drawer bottom and the base floor. The gap between the top and bottom bearings should be the same thickness as the runner, a slight gap would be fine. I made a quick jig to drill the holes in the correct position. Then it is a case of drilling holes for the bearings to be bolted to the sides. Watching the video at this stage will be helpful.

If the base is parallel the drawers should fit. If there’s any slight binding a squirt of silicone spray on the side of the runner will help. A top still needs fitting which will strengthen the whole unit. You may find at this point the drawers don’t run quite right as the centre piece of the base isn’t supported at the front.

Fitting the Unit

To fix the finished base into the truck bed I made use of tie down points located in the corners of the bed. I did this by fixing pieces of plywood to the base then bolting those pieces to where the tie downs were. If you are happy to drill holes in the truck bed floor you could bolt directly through it. Another option would be to use a few dabs of silicone or construction adhesive between the bed and the base. One way or another the base needs to be well fixed to the bed. Otherwise it will bounce around every time you hit a bump in the road and could eventually weaken and break. The last task is cutting and fitting the top, this will add strength to the unit. It’s simple task of measuring, cutting and screwing plywood to the top. I didn’t use glue here but I did use plenty of screws.

Optional Extras

A few items I haven’t gone into that certainly finish off the project and give it that pro touch are:

  • A catch to stop the drawers from moving backwards and forwards while driving.
  • A stop to prevent the drawer being pulled too far and out of the unit.
  • Drawer fronts covered in carpet to give it a slick look.
  • A rubber mat or carpet for the top.
  • Hatches to make use of the space down the sides of the unit.
  • Drawer dividers to keep your things organised.

These are all shown in the video and are self explanatory.

 

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Showing 109 comments
  • mj
    Reply

    Sharp looking layout. I’m thinking longterm about if I need to pull out drawers and platform to do other truck related activities. I think your design looks somewhat permanent. Anything ideas you might do differently if you wanted this to be somewhat removable?
    Thanks!
    mj in colorado.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      It is very permanent, saying that I could take it out with some effort, but not what you’re looking for. You could just make the main section without filling the sides in so it slides snugly between the wheel arches. You would have to work out a way to hold it down, unless that doesn’t worry you. If it was a good fit it wouldn’t move around but if you do any off-roading it may bounce around a little.

      • mj
        Reply

        thanks Pask! I think Ill trouble shoot some options to secure it, and be able to remove it if I need the truck bed. I’ll be using your design as a template.
        thanks for your response!
        mj

        • Ben
          Reply

          instead of bolting to the anchor holes, leave anchor points and criss cross some straps over top of drawer set

          • PaskMakes

            I wanted a more permanent set of drawers, but that would work too, especially if you needed to remove them fast! πŸ™‚

      • Clint
        Reply

        What size steel tube did you use???

        • Clint
          Reply

          Never mind I didn’t read closely enough!!!

        • PaskMakes
          Reply

          The steel tube is 1″ or 25mm box section. πŸ™‚

          • Clint

            What about thickness of tubes? If the drawer extends 5ft and only is held by 1 ft I was worried about it bending/breaking when at full extension with mild steel???

    • Eric Anderson
      Reply

      I’m another video, someone used turnbuckles to secure it to the existing tie down points in the bed. He did this on all four corners. That way it is very solid but can be removed.

  • Don
    Reply

    Hi very nicely done.
    Would you be willing to share the bolt/nuts/ washer sizes and if you have a link to purchase them?
    Thanks so much.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Don! The bearings are standard skateboard bearings I bought off ebay, I paid $30 for 50. The inner diameter of the bearings are 8mm so I used M8 bolts, the length depends on the thickness of plywood you use but 40mm for the sides should work. I used 60mm for the centre piece where there is a bearing either side of the plywood. You can get these from any hardware store. Hope this helps!

      • mj
        Reply

        or if you’re in ‘Merica, 5/16 in. works perfect.

  • Walter Ott
    Reply

    Great show !
    How deep are the drawers? Has this worked out well or would you change the height on your next truck?
    Thanks
    W

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I’m not sure off the top of my head but I’m very happy with height, I wouldn’t change it. You should spend a little time visualising it before you start but it’s a balance between the height of the drawers and how much space you leave above. πŸ™‚

    • Moti
      Reply

      Hi great job dear really refined work done by you i highly appreciate your effort i am from India

  • Cam
    Reply

    Awesome work! Some of the best I’ve seen online for sure. I was curious, would you recommend sleeping on top of the drawers? I’m looking to do the same thing in my Tacoma but sleep two adults on a full sized futon on top. Do you think it could support our weight? (approx 350 lbs)

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I reckon it would hold your weight no worries, plywood is very strong. πŸ™‚

  • Jordan Blake
    Reply

    Awesome work! Very very nicely done, this takes me back to the days where I would watch my grandfather work in his wood shop at his house.

  • John
    Reply

    Hey buddy
    Awesome work. Any ideas on how to make the top popup as i will be fitting it in a van incase i wanted to get to the drawers inside without opening it.
    Thanks

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Piano hinges would probably be your best bet. πŸ™‚

  • Deven Carley
    Reply

    Oh wow! It’s a supper Ideas. Very nice. It’s creative idea. I like it. I am impress this post. I haven’t any word to appreciate this post.Good Work

  • Ellen
    Reply

    Awesome video!! Will be doing this in my Tundra and trying to configure a pullout shelf for my dog crates. I will need to build the crates custom as they will need to be slanted on the corners. I hope I can make it work. This is the best I have seen yet…thanks!!!

  • Debby
    Reply

    Hi, What would the total rounded cost have been?

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      The total cost was around $300 AUD that included $90 for the rubber mat. πŸ™‚

      • Brent
        Reply

        I don’t know how u r getting it done. i’m pricing the slides in canada, tube,bearings,bolts,nuts, at $230 give or take. 8 foot box. 4- 8 ft tubes $160

        • Steve Arnold
          Reply

          i got bearings off amazon 40$, 4 bars now @ 8 feet stock length 215$ i upped the quality of plywood @ 50 a sheet so no cheap here in Canada but you get to custom it and its easy to add onto which i will i need the Nissan Frontier to carry supplies and such for hitting the road with teardrop camper

          • PaskMakes

            Wow! Are you saying 4x 8 feet of 1″ box section cost $215? I pay $20 for 6.5 metres. πŸ™‚

  • Barry Bunn
    Reply

    Neil, thanks for documenting this project. I built my own set of pull-outs patterned after yours and they turned out great. The skateboard bearings/steel square tube design is genius! Now I have a place to store my tools and not have to unload and load them each day. Love your channel by the way.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      That’s awesome Barry – glad you enjoy the channel! πŸ™‚

    • John Mavrogiannis
      Reply

      Bearings30 for 150 on eBay.
      1x1square tubing40 plywood 3 seetsx40=120
      Total 190
      Screws hid for pocket screws 30so for 300 u would have money for beer.

  • Marty Smith
    Reply

    How much to make me a set for my Triton? πŸ™‚ these are awesome.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Glad you like them Marty but I haven’t the time to make them for order. πŸ™‚

  • Chris
    Reply

    Hi mate, great job. Could you share what grade plywood you are using? Marine ply cost puts this project around $1000, but your opening suggests you paid much less. So curious if you used a different grade? Thanks.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Chris! I used cheap plywood nothing fancy. Marine ply here is just under $100 a sheet (18mm) $81 (15mm) so the overall cost wouldn’t be anywhere near $1000. My build cost $300 including $90 for the rubber mat, using marine ply would’ve pushed it up to around $400-450. πŸ™‚

      • Chris
        Reply

        Hi. Thanks for the reply. That’s very cheap. I’m in Canberra and certainly haven’t seen those prices from either the big guys or smaller timber yards. You must have a good trade account!

        • PaskMakes
          Reply

          I don’t have a trade account but they do have good places. Here’s the link, the prices are in the 4th photo https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/doonan/building-materials/marine-ply-the-bunker-doonan/1184320031

        • Jim Mulcahy
          Reply

          hey CHRIS i just bought 2 sheets of construction ply from Bunnings and they cost me around 100$ steel for runners around 20$ for 6 meter length from southern steel bearings 50$ off eBay marine carpet about 20$ a meter handles i used about 20# each Bunnings Roughly 140/150$ paint i had in garage. Hope this helps with Aust prices and supplier.

  • John
    Reply

    I love this design and how to video! I’m looking forward to making my own, just wanted some feedback as to what you thought the best way to weather proof it would be. I don’t have a bed cap, and buying one isn’t an option. Thanks!

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks John! If I were to make one that’s weatherproof I would make it out of formply or marine ply and silicone all the joints on the base. Maybe you would need a small overhang above the drawer fronts with a drip groove too. πŸ™‚

  • Colin Melvin
    Reply

    Great work… I will be attempting something in the back of my vehicle soon and like your simple layout. Well Done! During my looking around I saw something similar that would work well if you were camping etc that I would definitely do. They had a rebate around the top of one drawer with inserts/tops that would make a good working surface/table.
    Thanks

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Colin – that’s a good idea with the inserted tops. πŸ™‚

  • Chuck
    Reply

    Awesome tutorial. It was really professionally done. I’m looking at building one for my truck. I posted this question on your YouTube channel but thought I would also post it here. What would you estimate is the total weight of this? Thank you.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Hi Chuck! I think I just answered that on YouTube but anyway I’m really not sure what the weight would be. But, I reckon these trucks are made to carry a fair amount of weight and the weight of these drawers would be quite insignificant. πŸ™‚

  • Eric M
    Reply

    Hey Pask,

    I know you’re not from the States, but I’m making my drawers around 7ft long. Do you or anyone else here know where you can get 8ft 1inch box steel in the states for a reasonable price?

    Thanks!

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      When I buy box steel I get it from a steel merchants rather than the hardware store. It’s much cheaper and comes in 6.5m lengths.

  • Ed Raymond
    Reply

    This would be a great write up if it had measurements we could understand….no one sells “17mm plywood”….not sure why people insist on making everything more complicated, just for the sake of being trendy. I get it if you are a native European, but when I see you write “12.5cm” on your wood, it’s clear you’re going to a LOT of trouble not to write 1/2″ …lol

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Measurements aren’t included because everyones truck is different. I’ve included material thickness that I used but state similar would still be fine, so it doesn’t have to be 17mm (it’s flexible). How have I made anything more complicated, I’ve given the exact information I’ve used. Do you realise how many emails I receive daily (along with photos of peoples own builds) with the thanks for sharing this info and how helpful it has been to them. And btw 12.5cm is around 5″ not 1/2″. lol! πŸ™‚

    • mj
      Reply

      @ed Raymond, Dude, he’s from Australia. They are on the metric system. Not that hard either to google search ‘cm. to in.’ Jeeezus.

      • Odeweisser
        Reply

        @ed LOL why don’t you just learn the metric system like the rest of the world and stop thinking that everything revolves around you?

    • Jarrod
      Reply

      Your seriously so self indulged to think that the world is still running imperial!?
      If you don’t have anything constructive/complimentary to say, just keep it to your self.

  • Bri S
    Reply

    Do you find the section of the drawer where it doesn’t fully open frustrating to access?

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I honestly don’t, it’s quite accessible! πŸ™‚

  • John
    Reply

    Great video and instructions.
    I am gong to make te 2 sides higher and build just a plain platform for my air compressor and some other big tools all based on your design.
    Got 8 foot 1×1 14 gauge rubbing 8 pieces for $100.00
    100 bearings from eBay for $23.00.
    All I need now is the plywood.
    Thank you mate.from Florida USA.
    Ps.
    Don’t worry about the metric comments.
    They don’t know.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks John! Your build sounds great – good luck with it! πŸ™‚

  • JMB
    Reply

    This is exactly what i have been looking for, thank you so much for a detailed video on how to, cant wait to set this up in my truck!

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      No worries – glad it was helpful! πŸ™‚

  • Marissa
    Reply

    Where did you find that style of drawer latch, and what is it called?

  • Marissa
    Reply

    Where did you find the catches for the drawers? Do you know what common name they’re sold by?

  • David Sampson
    Reply

    Hi Pask, thank you for sharing a great video and awesome drawer system which I am definitely going to use for a system for my ranger. My son and I was watching it with admiration and appreciation for good quality work.

  • Jeff
    Reply

    I LOVE your design and wish I had the woodworking tools you have. That would make my build so much easier. I’m another individual from the states and wonder if you have alternative ideas for connecting the pieces? I suppose I could go buy that devise if I knew what it was. “Still an Amateur!” πŸ™‚
    And as I’m sure you’re already aware, folks with amazing ideas always seem to have “Haters.” They’re extremely annoying.
    Keep up the great work!

  • Harold Moore
    Reply

    Nice work! I’m not interested in bed drawers, But I can use your pattern to make a bed tray. Thanks.

  • Dave Asher
    Reply

    Hi Pask,
    Fantastic video, just what I’ve been looking for so THANKS.
    I’m about to build a similar set for my Nissan Navara. Just one question if I may; as you used 25mm square hoolow section, what centres did you set the bearings at please?
    Thanks in advance.
    Dave (Sheffield, England)

  • Anthony
    Reply

    Hi how does the bearing set up work? Do you have a nut/washer on the M8 bar on the inside of the bearings to stop the bearings rubbing against the plywood?
    TIA. Great build, great video. Thanks for sharing.

  • Mark Petersen
    Reply

    Sir, I have no idea why it took so long to discover your amazing channel. I will be building a set of these drawers for my Chevy truck soon. Just curious on the use of the blocks in front. It looks like you fitted the top right over them and didn’t make access for that inside space. Did I miss something? Is there a structural reason? I need every square inch available. This will be loaded with my “zombie apocalypse” kit πŸ™‚

  • startagl
    Reply

    Sliding rail system is a great idea. I was just thinking to use garage door wheels but your idea makes more room for the drawers. Thank you for sharing.

  • Tadhg
    Reply

    Hi Neil, fantastic video. Just wondering what carpet did you use?
    Thanks

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks. The carpet was just cheap, thin stuff from the hardware store. πŸ™‚

  • Joey
    Reply

    First of all,,, great video.
    My question is regarding the locking latch system that you used to keep them closed. What were they and could you giv more detail on them?
    Thank you very much.

  • Sean
    Reply

    Hi there, really like your drawers. just one question though. In the video you say the back plate is “angled back” to prevent the drawer base from lifting up. Then when you put in the sides and centre panel it seems it is perpendicular to the base? There is nothing said about this on this page. Any clarity on that, or is it not critical?
    Another question [that makes it 2 now :-)] do you drill pocket holes on both sides of the side and centre panels?
    Cheers
    Sean

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      The back of the truck bed is angled not my unit. The base of the unit sticks out a little at the back and pushed right up to the angled truck bed it is impossible for it to lift up. I would guess most truck beds would be vertical so you may not be able to do this but I mention other ways of fixing the unit down. If you viewed the video again it should make sense. πŸ™‚

  • Jonah
    Reply

    Thanks Pask! Love the design, way cheaper than buying heavy duty rails! I am wondering how long to make the steel runners to maximize the amount the drawers will open. My truck bed is 6′. Appreciate all the time you’ve put into this and answering all the comments!!

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      No worries Jonah! Make the runners the full length of the drawers. Make sure to put the bearings closer together near the front and you should be good. Mine drawers were 5′ so you’ll have a little more stress on those front bearings but it won’t be an issue. πŸ™‚

  • Richard Erickson
    Reply

    I am starting to make a version of this for my pickup truck. Should I use 16 gauge steel or 1/8″ (approx. 3.1mm) thick steel tubing?

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Hey Richard, the thickness of the steel doesn’t matter, there isn’t any real strength required. πŸ™‚

  • Kevin
    Reply

    Thanks for your hard work. I am picking up a go fast camper shell which has a tent top built in the fall.
    gofastcampers.com
    I have a 6.5 foot bed. The camper shell is designed so you can use your truck as a daily worker. Is there a way to design the drawers differently so I can easily remove them to utilize my truck bed when I need the extra depth.
    Thank you.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      The drawers can be removed but not easily, that would require a bit of thinking! If you made them just the size of the drawers without any of the fitted sides then they would slide out easy enough, you would just have to figure out how to secure them. If you don’t mind drilling through the bed you could bolt them down through the floor. πŸ™‚

  • Brandon
    Reply

    I love this project. I will be shameless in copying it but i was wondering, would it be possible to make the top of the draws into a bed slider?

    I want to mount a tool box on top and be able to slide it out of the tub.

    Awesome effort you have put into this and very easy to follow, very good job mate.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Brandon! I reckon you should be able to adapt it and incorporate a bed slider. Glad the project was helpful to you! πŸ™‚

  • Gav
    Reply

    Thanks Neil, great design. Now that these have been in a while, are you finding any wearing of the plywood caused by the runners sliding a tad sideways between the bearings? Wondering if a low friction strip needed? Had any thoughts about making one/both tops sliding as per titan drawers? e.g for fridge.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I haven’t noticed any wear, everything works as good as the day I made them. Although it wouldn’t be a bad idea to add a low friction strip. I originally thought about adding a sliding top but I opted to keep it simple, also with the side windows of the canopy it’s pretty easy to reach into the whole area! πŸ™‚

  • Patrick McMahon
    Reply

    hey mate, just wondering, what do you do to ensure the drawers pull out flush and not run into the tail gate of the Ute when it is open? if that makes sense
    and if they back of my tub isnt angles, how do i secure it then?

    cheers, great video

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      The tail gate should be the same level of the bed so there should be enough clearance. There’s a couple of ways you could secure them, either drill through the truck bed and bolt the unit down or an easier way would be to use a few dabs of construction adhesive or silicon to stick it down. πŸ™‚

  • Tim
    Reply

    Great looking project, just what I have been looking for. Especially love using the skateboard ball bearings. One question, in looking for the square tubing, I have found two different thicknesses. One about 1.65 mm, the other about 2.4 mm. While thicker would be better, it’s also more costly. So i was curious as to what thickness you used.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Hey Tim, there’s no real strength needed so the thinner walled tubing would be fine! πŸ™‚

      • Tim
        Reply

        Thanks for the input, thinner wall tubing it is.

      • Steve Arnold
        Reply

        i was looking at the heavy bars used for hanging wire shelving is not boxed but U shaped; lot cheaper but would it collapse in time (could fill it with sq strip of wood

        • PaskMakes
          Reply

          I reckon that could work. I’m surprised that 1″ steel box section is expensive. It costs around $20 for 6.5M here and most things here are pretty expensive compared to other parts of the world. πŸ™‚

  • Michael
    Reply

    Where did you get those front notch openers?
    What are they called? I am not talking about handles

  • Vic
    Reply

    Love your video and article. I have skate bearings ordered and will be making a drawer for a Dodge Grand Caravan…great info!

  • Vic
    Reply

    Got the Dodge Caravan drawer made…your video made it possible. Thanks!!!

  • Hamish
    Reply

    Hey mate. Great work on these drawers for the Ute. My only question is where did you get the skateboard bearings from. I think you used 48 in total? I have looked around online but can’t seem to find any in the price range you mentioned. Cheers!

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I bought the bearings off eBay. There’s heaps of listings to buy x10 x20 etc skateboard bearings. I recently bought x40 for $19. πŸ™‚

      • Hamish
        Reply

        Lol… I actually finished my drawers about a month ago. They came out great. Thanks for the video.

        • Hamish
          Reply

          And yes I found the bearings on ebay. Great idea mate. Cheers!

  • Farnsy
    Reply

    Great video – just wish I had a workshop like yours to build it all in πŸ™‚ Did your tray come with a bed liner? and if so, why did you decide to remove it?

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks! The truck didn’t come with a liner. πŸ™‚

  • Russ
    Reply

    This is awesome, sir. I’m wondering how you might incorporate a lock to the drawers. The latches are a great design, but aren’t full-proof against thieves. I’d like to build this for my truck, but unfortunately I’m unable to lock my tailgate/canopy and I’m not sure how to go about making a locking system that will use the space effectively.
    Love your videos. Thanks in advance.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Russ! You could fit a lock to the drawer fronts and have it engage into the underside of the top, it wouldn’t be too difficult to do. It probably wouldn’t be that secure though, as you could probably pry the front of the drawer off with some force if you were determined but it’s still a deterrent. πŸ™‚

  • Bruce
    Reply

    These are a fantastic set if drawers and I’ll be using the inspiration for these for our upcoming van build. Quick question regarding the centre panel. Do you have a single bolt with a bearing on each side? Thanks

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Bruce! Yes it’s a single bolt on the inter section. πŸ™‚

  • akin akina
    Reply

    so is there a any way to put sink and fire system in the Drawers if yes how can i and which side thank u

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      I’m not sure, but I can’t see why it couldn’t be done! πŸ™‚

  • Bill L
    Reply

    This is fantastic, do you think aluminum rails rather than steel would work? U shape rather than square? Thanks.

    • PaskMakes
      Reply

      Thanks Bill. I reckon aluminium would be fine but not as strong as steel. There’d be more chance of it wearing but I don’t think it would be an issue.
      Using a U shape channel (C section) wouldn’t be strong enough on it’s own but you could fill it with a piece of wood and then it would be. πŸ™‚

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